Alpine, TX

I had quite a break there due to absence of service in the Big Bend area. Spent one night in Marathon getting ready for the trip into Big Bend National Park, TX. Marathon is a small town about 69 miles from the Park Hdqs, Panther Junction. I stayed at a pretty nice RC/Motel combo park. It had been beautiful all day, clear skies and warm. The mesquite trees slowly disappeared the further I traveled from Sonora and the Juniper shriveled to about two feet tall. Clearly, we were entering the desert. The temp read 18 the next morning and my water had frozen. Fortunately, you can't do much to damage these Casitas and all was well; although, it took me quite a while to unhook the hose. Had to use pliers. I just put the two ends of the hose together and stuck it inside the Casita to thaw.

The trip to Big Bend was just lovely. There we were on the Chihuahuan desert. No trees, just huge yucca like plants with gigantic blooms, prickly pear cactus, walking stick cactus, and all manner of vegetation adorned with spikes, needles and burrs. The prickly pear was fascinating because as it dies it turns various shades of purple, orange, red and pink. This past year has been very dry so many cacti have passed on to "higher prickly grounds". I had a hard time keeping my eyes on the road.

Just picture these desert plants with a back drop of ragged, jagged spiraling mountains, many of which were volcanoes. You find a mix of jagged red/orange hills next to volcanic ash that has turned into white rock with age. Better than science fiction. When I stopped at a scenic overlook and got out of the car I was hit by the silence, shocking. And, no wind at all. At first glance you get the feeling that nothing could live out here. Wrong, coyotes, javelena, cougar, bear and smaller critters. Simply amazing.

Fox and I stayed at Cottonwood Campground by the Rio Grande River. No hookups and no generators allowed. People are encouraged to camp quietly. The first night we camped under this yellow flowering tree. The fragrance was delicate and just strong enough to leave you with pleasant feeling instead of a headache. That night a group of us watched a big horned owl in one of the tall cottonwoods. I met two gals, Carol and Robin, with two dogs, JJ and Todd. We hit it off and I spent the next 2 days hiking with them. They were camping in a '66 Airstream. . . really nice inside. As it turns out they are from Eureka Spgs, AK where I bought my Casita. They had called on the Casita the day after I bought it. Small world.

Carol is an artist and quite a good one. We showed each other our work and had a grand time talking art. Our first hike was to Saint Elena Canyon. Wow!! The Rio goes right through the canyon with rock walls jutting up 300-4000ft on both sides. It was magnificent with the sun hitting the river and walls. That was a fairly easy hike. The next day we hiked 4 miles to an oasis. Talk about hot and tiring. Of course, all is worth it when you see such spectacular country. The Javelena came into our campground. They are pretty interesting, eat anything and look like pigs, although, they are not related to the pig family. Also got to see two great horned owls mate. What a sight! The owls are huge and I kept my eye on the Fox.

At first, I was a bit cautious about camping so close to the Mexican border; however, the cliffs on the other side were so tall and steep that no one could come over them. I should say, though, border patrol were everywhere so I felt pretty safe. Coming out of Big Bend this morning I was stopped at a border inspection station. The officer just asked me if I was a US citizen and if I had come from the park. Then he wished me well and off I went.

I pulled into Alpine around 2pm. This is not a pretty place. Looks rather shabby and run down. Tomorrow I will look around town, get groceries and check out Marfa 35 miles down the road. It is supposed to be somewhat of an artist community. Today I spent my time doing the laundry and taking a shower. Man did I feel dirty after 4 days in the park with no shower and a lot of dust. Had eggs for supper and a frozen McDonald's hot fudge sundae I bought when I pulled into town. I stuck it in the freezer for a treat after dinner. It is dark and I can feel it cooling off. I sure will sleep well tonight after my household chores. Onward tomorrow. Oh, I should say that I am really enjoying staying in the National and State Parks. Cost me $7 to camp! The US is one beautiful place and I love the stark, expanse of the west. . . astonishingly magnificent.